Disney Lorcana Rarity Chart: Codes, Tiers, and Pull Rates

I’ve spent way too many nights squinting at tiny icons, arguing over foil patterns, and doing the math on pull rates that probably belong on a conspiracy board. So yeah, I’m that person. And today I’m talking about Lorcana card rarity stuff. In plain talk. If you’re new and you keep seeing people debate lorcana rarity symbols like it’s a Supreme Court case—welcome. You’re fine. Breathe. In my experience, once you know where to look on the card (collector number, set icon, rarity code), and you have a simple rarity chart in your head, it all clicks. You’ll also hear terms like “pull rates,” “booster packs,” “foil vs non-foil,” and “Enchanted.” All normal. All learnable. I promise.

Why rarities even exist (and why we love/hate them)

Rarity is the hobby’s drama engine. It’s what makes a pack fun. It’s also what makes your wallet cry. If you’ve touched any collectible card game—yes, I’m looking at you, Magic: The Gathering and Pokémon—you already get the idea. Disney Lorcana takes that same “commons to holy-grail” ladder and makes it very clean. If you’re brand new to Disney Lorcana, the ladder goes like this: common, uncommon, rare, super rare, legendary, enchanted. Easy names. The part that confuses people early on is the tiny letter codes and the foils. We’ll fix that.

Where to find the rarity on the card (no magnifying glass needed—well, maybe)

Look at the bottom of the card. You’ll see a collector number like “123/204.” Right next to it, you’ll find a tiny letter code that tells you the rarity. In my experience, it’s super readable once you know it’s there. You’ll see things like C (common), U (uncommon), R (rare), SR (super rare), L (legendary), and E (enchanted). Some cards will also show a set icon so you know which release it came from. That’s it. No hidden puzzle. No secret handshake. Just a small code near the numbers.

Quick mental map

• C = Common (you’ll see these a lot)
• U = Uncommon (still plenty around)
• R = Rare (the base “special” tier)
• SR = Super Rare (spicy pull)
• L = Legendary (start smiling)
• E = Enchanted (full-body happy noise)

Rarity tiers explained the way I wish someone told me

Common

These are your bread-and-butter cards. You build decks with them. You toss dupes into a trade binder. If you pull a foil common, it looks nice, but it won’t fund your retirement. (Please don’t try.)

Uncommon

I’ve always found uncommons to be sleeper hits. Some are stronger than rares in actual play. If you care about gameplay, don’t ignore these.

Rare

Rares are the “you get at least something” spot. A lot of your key deck pieces live here. Not every rare is expensive. That’s normal.

Super Rare

Now we’re getting to the “hey, nice pull” moments. In my experience, SRs are the exciting finds you can trade, display, or flex without guilt.

Legendary

These hit like a small holiday. Great in binders. Great in decks. People will ask to see them and pretend they’re not jealous. They are.

Enchanted

The big sparkle. Full-art rainbow foil treatment. These are chase cards. You pull one, you remember where you were. It’s that kind of energy.

Foil vs non-foil (and why your camera hates shiny cards)

Every pack has a foil in it. Could be a common, could be a legendary, could be an enchanted. A standard foil card is your regular art with foil shine. Enchanted is a whole different look—full art, special foil treatment, and a very “I’m rare” vibe. If you plan to sell, protect foils right away. Soft sleeve first. Then a top loader. Don’t pocket them. Body heat plus foil equals sadness.

Pack anatomy: what you usually get

Typical Lorcana boosters have 12 cards. You’ll see a mix like commons, uncommons, two cards in the rare-or-better slots, and one foil of any rarity. Are there exceptions? Always. But that’s the basic shape. If you’re new to buying a booster pack, you’ll learn the rhythm fast. I open them like a gremlin: foil last, slow reveal, pretend I’m not superstitious. I am.

A simple rarity table (because my brain likes charts)

Pull rates: what the community sees (and why it varies)

I track pulls like a weirdo. I also watch box openings, store case breaks, and local tournament gossip. Pull rates vary by set and print run, but community chatter generally puts Enchanted at “low single-digit percent over many boxes” territory. Some folks say roughly one every few boxes. Some say one per case. It moves. Super Rares and Legendaries show up more often than that, of course. The one-per-pack foil slot is real and reliable.

Ballpark ranges I’ve seen across sets

Don’t treat this as gospel. It’s more like weather. Close enough to plan, but bring an umbrella.

How I read the bottom line of a card (fast)

• Collector number: “Card out of set,” like 147/204.
• Set indicator: Tiny set icon or code so you know the release.
• Rarity code: C, U, R, SR, L, or E. That’s the money line.
• Artist credit: Say thanks to the humans who made the art sing.

Once you do that a dozen times, your eyes auto-lock on the rarity code. It becomes muscle memory. Like checking the mirror before a lane change, but for cardboard.

Foil patterns and print quirks

In my experience, standard foils can curl a little in dry air. Everyone in this hobby has a humidity story. Store foils in sleeves, inside a box, and you’ll be fine. Enchanted cards have a different surface feel and look. You’ll know. It’s not “is this maybe special?” It’s “oh wow, this is special.” Don’t overthink it.

How this compares to other games (the short version)

Compared to long-running games like Magic, the tier names are simpler and the letter codes are cleaner. Compared to Pokémon, the chase tier (Enchanted) has its own vibe—full art and a very strong identity. If you’ve ever learned a new game’s symbol mess, this will feel refreshingly tidy.

Buying tips from someone who has messed up (a lot)

• Set a budget before you touch packs. Packs are feelings machines. Feelings spend money.
• If you want specific cards, trading or singles is often cheaper than chasing them in packs.
• Sleeve foils immediately. Yes, even the common ones. Future you will thank present you.
• Don’t store stacks in a hot car. Cards warp. Heat is the enemy.
• If something seems too cheap for its rarity, check condition and authenticity.

Trading without drama

Use a simple rule: value for value, condition for condition. Soft sleeves during the trade. If you’re trading a legendary for multiple rares, keep it calm and clear. I take pictures of both sides before leaving the table. Paranoid? Maybe. But I sleep great.

My take on grading

Grading (PSA, CGC, etc.) helps for big hits, especially Enchanted or top-tier Legendaries. If you plan to grade, put the card in a perfect-fit sleeve, then a semi-rigid. Don’t press it flat under books. That’s how you crease corners. Ask me how I know.

Storage: the boring bit that saves you money

• Use soft sleeves for all foils and valuable non-foils.
• Top loaders for the big cards.
• Card storage boxes for bulk. Label them by set and rarity.
• Desiccant packs inside long-term boxes help control humidity.

Deckbuilding notes for newer players

Rarity isn’t the same as power. Some commons and uncommons define formats. Some legendaries are shiny binder kings and never make a main deck. I build test decks with whatever I have—play games—then upgrade with trades. Cheap. Efficient. Fun.

Market swings (don’t chase every spike)

Prices move after tournaments, new spoilers, or cool content drops. If you’re going for personal collection, buy what you love. If you’re going for value, sell into hype and buy back later. The basics haven’t changed in decades.

The letters are the point (not the myths)

I keep hearing myths like “All foils are rare.” No. Foil is a finish, not a rarity. Or “Enchanted always means misprint.” Also no. The letter by the collector number tells you the rarity. Finishes, art variants, and promos are awesome, but they’re side notes on top of the main ladder.

Mini glossary you’ll actually use

• Collector number: the “card X out of Y” label.
• Set icon: tiny symbol that says what release it is.
• Rarity code: those C/U/R/SR/L/E letters.
• Foil: shiny finish. Pretty. Distracting. Photographers cry.
• Pull rate: rough odds of seeing a card of a given tier in packs.
• Bulk: low-value cards in volume. Still precious. Just… in bulk.

For the lore nerds and crossover fans

If you love story as much as cardboard, same. I write a lot about game lore and how mechanics tie into theme. I also do long rambles on RPG reviews and some very specific adventure guides when I fall into a rabbit hole. If you like getting every last secret, I’ve got a piece on master RPG walkthroughs. And if side content is your love language, read my rant about epic side quests. Different games, same obsession gene.

Common mistakes I see at local tables

• People think the set icon is the rarity. It isn’t. Look for the letters.
• Leaving foils unsleeved “just for now.” Now becomes forever. Corners cry.
• Trading a Legendary for a pile of unplayable rares. Quantity isn’t quality.
• Assuming an Enchanted is fake because it feels different. It’s supposed to.
• Shuffling hard like it’s poker night. Don’t bridge bend your cards. Please.

“Is this card worth anything?” My boring, honest flowchart

• Check the rarity code. Higher tier usually means more value.
• Check condition. Near mint sells; played gets trade-chucked.
• Check playability. Tournament cards gain value even at lower rarities.
• Check art variant. Enchanted? Promo? Alternate art? That matters.
• Check current market listings, but don’t panic over outliers.

How many packs to get something “big”?

This is the question everyone asks and no one wants to answer plainly. The answer is: more than you think, less than your worst fear, and random strikes at random times. I’ve opened three packs and hit something nuts. I’ve opened a box and felt like a raccoon digging through recycling. That’s the fun and the pain.

Small story time

I once pulled an Enchanted after telling a friend, “I’m done buying packs for the week.” It was pack number four that day. Do I regret it? No. Did I learn a lesson? Also no. But I did put it straight into a sleeve. Growth.

Little tricks for quick sorting on kitchen tables

• Make three piles: “play,” “trade,” “bulk.” Be ruthless.
• Sort “play” by ink color and cost. You’ll spot deck ideas fast.
• Sort “trade” by rarity—SR, L, E up front for easy flipping.
• Bulk into long boxes by set, then alphabetically if you’re brave.

On scarcity and print runs

Print runs change. Early sets can feel scarce. Later reprints smooth it out. If you’re collecting long term, patience wins more often than panic. I set alerts, make trades, and wait out silly spikes.

The phrase people keep googling

Alright, since everyone keeps messaging me about lorcana rarity symbols, here’s the clean version again: look by the collector number, find the letter code (C, U, R, SR, L, E), check the finish (foil, non-foil, full-art Enchanted), and you’re done. That’s the whole trick. You’ll get fast at it.

Comparing value without losing your mind

• Binder pages for SR/L/E. It keeps your “good stuff” visible and safe.
• Note playability. Tournament wins move prices faster than hype sometimes.
• Watch for reprints. They happen. Prices adjust. Don’t panic sell.
• Trade locally when you can. No shipping risk, no “lost in mail” drama.

And yes, I still open packs for fun

I know better. I do it anyway. Because when that rare-or-better slot hits big, it’s magic. Not the brand. The feeling. And if you were wondering, I still track pull rates in a spreadsheet that would embarrass me if anyone saw it.

A tiny nod to the design team

Clean codes, simple tiers, a shiny chase that feels special. It’s a neat system. I’ve seen a lot of games over the last decade, and this one threads the needle between collector joy and player clarity. Even when I’m grumpy about supply, I can admit the structure is smart.

Before you go sort your pile

One last time for the road: codes beat myths. Read the letters, not the rumors. Foil is a finish. Enchanted is the chase. And if you’re still unsure about anything, bring your stack to the local shop and ask. Card people love to talk. Obviously. I just wrote 2,000 words about it.

FAQs (the stuff people actually ask me)

• Q: Where exactly is the rarity shown on the card?
  A: Next to the collector number at the bottom. Look for C, U, R, SR, L, or E.
• Q: Do foils mean a card is rarer?
  A: Not by default. A foil common is still a common, just shiny.
• Q: How often do Enchanted cards show up?
  A: Rare. Think “sometimes you go a whole box without one.” It varies by set and luck.
• Q: Are Super Rares worth keeping if I don’t play them?
  A: Usually yes. They trade well, and some gain value later.
• Q: I pulled something fancy. What do I do first?
  A: Soft sleeve, then top loader. Then celebrate. Then maybe check recent sales.

Oh—one more thing. If you see anyone arguing online about lorcana rarity symbols like it’s life or death, send them here. Or don’t. I’ll be over here pretending not to open another pack.

Thomas Hill

Thomas Hill: Your guide to epic adventures. I cover RPG Reviews, Walkthroughs, Game Lore, and Open World Rankings. Ready for your next quest?